Archive for the ‘Chew Something New’ Category

Chew Something New: Sea Beans

Monday, July 12th, 2010

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I was in Seattle over the weekend visiting friends and getting to know the city again after quite a few years away. My first stop was lunch at Emmer & Rye in Queen Anne with Anthony Nicalo, a chef and founder of Farmstead Wines. He’s as passionate about redefining the way we look at our food and food system as anybody I’ve ever met, and was full of fantastic ideas on how to better educate consumers and bring openness to the food system.

We had a lovely conversation (as expected), and a fantastic meal, but there was one menu item that piqued my interest in particular. Paired with the seared tuna and a gribiche sauce, sea beans struck me as the foreign entity amongst familiar west coast fare. The next day, they turned up again at the farmer’s market with a great little explanation (see photo above). I’ve come to think of them as the fiddlehead of the coast — a funny little green vegetable that is appreciated by a few dedicated locals and not really known far beyond their natural growing grounds. They are a bit like a salty asparagus, and are apparently common in salads along the coast this time of year.

If you’re interested in giving them a go, this recipe for Black Roasted Cod with Sea Beans and Oysters looked delicious. Chow Hound also has a list of other great uses. If you’re near the the coast, keep your eyes open for these quirky vegetables at your local market, otherwise you can order them any time here.

Chew Something New: Knife Skills 101

Tuesday, June 8th, 2010

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Last night I attended a quick class on knife skills at The Natural Gourmet Institute (Carlin’s alma-matter!). It was laid back and fun and jam-packed with helpful information. In addition to cutting technique, we learned a few easy-to-implement tips to help anyone get started in the kitchen:

1. You don’t need an armory of knives
What you DO need is: A good chef’s knife (French or Japanese is fine – they both do the same thing, just have a different shape), a slicing knife (for meat), a paring knife, a serrated knife (for bread, tomatoes, anything with a tough outer skin) a good peeler and a steel for keeping your knives performing well.

2. Keep your knives sharp
A dull knife is dangerous and much less effective. If your knives have not been sharpened in a long time, take them to be professionally sharpened, then maintain them by using the steel to re-hone the edge after each use. You can check to see if they’re sharp by folding (but not creasing) a piece of newspaper and using your knife to slice from the top of the fold away from you. If the knife fails to slice cleanly, you can try steeling it. If it still fails, it needs to be sharpened.

3. Use a good cutting board
Wood or plastic will do, but never cut on metal, glass or acrylic. You can place a sticky mat under your board to keep it from slipping.

4. Keep your space clean and orderly
Have a damp rag nearby to wipe down your cutting board and knives as necessary. Also, inexpensive small bowls are helpful for organizing things that you’ve already cut and keeping them out of the way.

5. Do not put your knives in the dishwasher
Hand wash them with soap and water then towel dry them. Store them on a magnetic strip, a block (make sure they’re dry before placing in), or a drawer with protective wooden or plastic sheaths.

6. Cut right
Learning how to cut safely and efficiently (and beautifully) is really the end goal, and there is a technique to it. It’s worth a class or picking up a book if you’re unsure of your skills or are interested in trying new things. I’d recommend Knife Skills Illustrated by Peter Hertzmann. It’s great for visual learners like me, and shows both right and left-handed techniques for vegetables, fruits, meat, fish and poultry. Most culinary schools also offer short courses for non-students ranging from one evening to several days of instruction depending on the school and the intensity of the course.

Chew Something New: Fiddleheads

Wednesday, May 5th, 2010

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For only a couple of weeks in early spring the tiny Fiddlehead makes quite a stir. These unfurled shoots of the ostrich fern are supposedly similar in taste to Asparagus and are generally prepared in a somewhat similar way. However, Fiddlheads are never cultivated in the way that Asparagus sometimes is, so must always be foraged from the leafy Northeast forest floor. I tracked some down at the market today and plan to give them a go — to see what all the hubbub is about. After a little research online, I found a recipe that looks tasty (and relatively easy) from Charlie Burke’s website The Heart of New England.

Fiddlehead Ferns Saute
by Charlie Burke

- 1 pound fiddlehead ferns
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- Butter (optional)
- 2 cloves finely chopped garlic (optional)
- ¼ cup pancetta or bacon, cut into ¼ inch cubes (optional)
- Kosher or sea salt and ground black pepper

Trim the dark ends from the stems and wash the fiddleheads in a coarse strainer using a strong stream of water. Place them in a large bowl of water and swirl them around, rubbing off the thin flakes of chaff on the ferns. Drain and dry in a kitchen
towel, rubbing off any remaining chaff.

Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium – high heat. Add the bacon or pancetta, if using, and cook, stirring until lightly browned. Add ferns and garlic and cook, covered, for 3 – 4 minutes. Uncover and cook for an additional 3 – 4 minutes or until they are tender but still are slightly crunchy. Add salt and pepper to taste and swirl in some butter if you wish. Serve immediately. If you make extra, they make an interesting addition to a mixed salad or soups and stews. Because they are fully cooked, add them at the last minute to hot dishes. Any way you serve them, you will be enjoying a true New England treasure.

Chew Something New: Farm to Table Steak

Saturday, April 17th, 2010

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The beautiful weather last weekend allowed for a little grilling here in the Northeast, so J and I took advantage by heading over to Hemlock Hill farm and picking up 3 amazing steaks. We wanted to sample a few different cuts to compare (and share), so we chose a New York Strip, a Delmonico, and a Rib Steak. Taking tips from the Blue Hill Grills event back in February, we used hardwood charcoal and wood from the winter’s fallen trees on the grill instead of traditional charcoal.

The results were amazing all around, but we both agreed that the Delmonico was the tastiest. It can be a bit more of an investment to get meat directly from the farmer, but the tremendous taste and opportunity to chat with the guy who cares for the cows more than makes up for the extra monetary cost. If your local farmer’s market doesn’t have a great selection of meat yet, I’d recommend trying to go directly to the source. It generally makes for a fun little adventure…trekking out to the farm to meet the animals and support your local farmer.

Chew Something New: Local Flour

Friday, April 9th, 2010

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Since I began trying to eat more locally sourced foods, I have made an effort to try one new fruit, vegetable or food item each time I go to the farmer’s market. It’s been a fun way to improve my cooking skills and demystifiy many of the more intimidating things at the market. I’d like to start sharing these mini adventures whenever possible…beginning today.

One of the greatest discoveries for a locavore (especially one with a taste for baked goods, like me) is locally milled flour. It can be hard to come by, but we’re lucky here in the city to have access to a couple of great options available at the Greenmarket each week. Farmer Ground Flour from Newfield (near Ithaca) and Oak Grove Mills from New Jersey both provide a variety of different flours — including whole wheat, buckwheat, rye, polenta, cornmeal, and wheat bran.

I decided to try out my local flour by making homemade buttermilk pancakes. Combining whole wheat pastry flour from Farmer Ground Flour and buckwheat flour from Oak Grove Mills made for delicious, if somewhat darker than normal pancakes. It wasn’t my first time using local flour (I’ve used it to make homemade bread and pie crusts before), but it was a first for homemade pancakes.

Look out for local flour at your market, and give it a try if you get the chance. It’s packed full of flavor and surely healthier than the bleached stuff you find at the supermarket!