Archive for the ‘Buying Local’ Category

Talking Tilth @ Tilth

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

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Over duck burgers at Tilth in Seattle a few weeks ago I got to know my cousin’s fiancé, Luke. He’s the son of two of the Organic movement’s primary moving forces from the 70’s. He’s an amature chef and a foodie whose personal history is linked more directly to our country’s fight for a sustainable food system than anyone else I know.

Over our delicious dinner, I learned that Luke’s parents, Woody & Becky Deryckx were part of the formation of the Tilth conference. Tilth began as a means for advocating for agriculture that respected the land and the communities that lived there. It was one of the first sparks that started the Northwest’s organic movement.

Woody has continued as an organic farmer in Washington state, and has, over the years contributed in many ways to the support of sustainable agriculture. Tilth, meanhwile has grown drammaticlly and it’s chapters have created models for organic and sustainable practices, research, certification, composting, gardening, farmers markets, education, and more.

It was ironic and wonderful that we were discussing the history of this amazing organization that was founded by the family of the son I dined with at the restaurant that bore it’s name.

If so inspired, you can learn more about the history of Tilth here, and I encourage you to check out the restaurant Tilth if you’re ever in the Seattle area.

Turcotte’s Bees

Friday, August 6th, 2010

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Elton Turcotte is one of those friends that maintains a certain level of fame within our family. A holdover from when my parents were young and wild, Elton has maintained his child-like antics well into adulthood. From the first time I could understand who Elton was, I was terrified of him. He swore like a sailor, dressed like a logger, and left no child untortured — even if she was quiet and skiddish and clearly uninterested in adult banter.

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There are plenty of characters in northern Idaho, but Elton has long been our character. As socially incorrect and foul-mouthed as he can be, Elton is one of the sweetest and most genuine people we know. Always willing to lend a hand while you butcher your deer in his “clean room”, or offer space in his envious machine shop, Elton is the go-to guy when guys in the Northwest need to get stuff done. He’s a bit of a homesteader, having raised beef and chickens on his land and most interesting to me, he keeps bees. Elton has been keeping bees since the 1970’s and has long supplied our family and other lucky friends with fresh Turcotte’s Bees honey. I could never quite understand how the same man who threatened to hang me by my socks also created the key ingredient to my favorite sandwich (peanut butter and honey).

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While home for July, I asked my dad to contact Elton. Not sure if this was a good idea, I prepped myself for the imminent barrage of insults and barbs. But when we arrived, Elton seemed milder…he’d found a new woman. She’s wonderful! We had a fantastic chat about his hives (which also suffered greatly in the recent bee blight), his visits to the local elementary schools to give bee tutorials, and of course the details of his hives and the process of extracting the honey. Unfortunately, the bees weren’t ready to hand over their combs yet, but I’m hoping to get my hands on a jar of Turcotte’s Bees honey as soon as it’s available.

Thanks again, Elton!

Weekend in Vermont

Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010

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Vermont seems to be one of those states that is home to the local and seasonal movement. Gorgeous red barns, rolling green hills and everywhere you turn you can get local cheese, grass-fed meats, fresh bread, delicious corn, arugula and of course, blueberries.

This past weekend, I met my husband up in Burlington. On Friday night, we splurged and ate at the Inn at Shelburne Farms. It was absolutely incredible.  Before we even opened the menus our lovely waitress, Emily, explained that over 60% of the menu is not only local, but grown or raised on the premises of the farm.

We started with their Feast of the Fields appetizer that changes nightly. This was a selection of whatever was harvested from their land that particular day.  Friday night was a mix of roasted zucchini and eggplant, radishes, three different types of cucumbers, cheese and a homemade eggplant spread. Super beautiful and delish.  We also began with a locally smoked cavendish quail that sat atop a warm corn salad.

For entrees, he ordered a wild striped bass in a roasted cherry tomato and roasted zucchini ragout and I had a grilled pork tenderloin with a blueberry sage sauce and a cauliflower-vidalia gratin.  My husband was doubtful about the fruit sauce with the meat but when he took his first bite all doubts immediately disappeared. Our dessert was a raspberry lemon curd tart and a trio of homemade ice creams and a sorbet:  a scoop of each corn and cheese ice cream and a raspberry sorbet.

We needed to work off dinner the next day so we climbed to the summit of Camel’s Hump mountain and then headed to the famous Farmer’s Diner in Quechee.  The entire menu is a based upon what they can source from within 70 miles and the restaurant is in an old Airstream trailer. The food was great and it was fun.

So if you head to Vermont anytime soon, you will have plenty of great eating to do, most of which is effortlessly local and seasonal.

Seattle to Portland Roundup

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010

My week of roaming has come to an end, and what can I say? I had a blast. It was wonderful to reconnect with so many old friends, to visit them in their homes, and let them guide me to the best places from Seattle to Olympia to Portland. There were so many great stops along the way that I thought it unfair not to share a few of my favorites…

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First stop, Seattle: I ate very well in Seattle. In fact, I don’t remember doing much of anything else. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I started right off with lunch at Emmer & Rye, then later that evening moved on to dinner at at Tilth — also a favorite for seasonal cuisine. We had duck burgers with homemade potato chips rendered in duck fat. Need I say more? Over the next two days, I visited the farmer’s market where I ate the largest snap pea I’d ever seen, tried my first cheese curd at Beechers, visited The Seafood Festival in Ballard and snacked on the most delicious garlic fries ever while watching the sun set as the Mariners actually BEAT the Yankees.

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Then, Olympia: I spent most of my time in Olympia enjoying the view from my friend’s amazing cottage on the Sound. We ate raspberries from the garden, No Woman cheese we picked up at Beecher’s the day before and amazingly fresh salmon grilled on a wooden plank. The little time I spent in town, was mostly confined to little French pastry and coffee shop called The Bread Peddler. It reminded me of the little bakery around the corner from my place in NY, so I felt compelled to sample their coffee, pastries and a baguette (to go with the cheese, of course).

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The final stop, Portland: The first thing I have to say about Portland — which is clear to anyone who has ever visited is that FOOD CARTS ROCK! These mini food havens allow for experimentation that has clearly led to a unique food culture — and a cult-like dedication among many of the locals. While I could have camped out behind Garden State eating their Chickpea Sandwiches my whole visit, I did venture out to see what the rest of the city had to offer. Here’s what I found: Pastaworks for amazing bread, cheese, salami, sweets and high-end packaged goods, Powell’s Books for Home and Garden (imagine Powell’s, then strip away all the stuff you’ll never read), Townshend’s Tea for a great respite from all the eating, The Meadow for the most incredible selection of salts imaginable (plus a healthy selection of chocolate..and flowers), Ruby Jewel for design-your-own ice cream sandwiches, and of course Pistils Nursery for all your urban farming needs. When I wasn’t eating, I was either drinking at one of the countless brew-pubs in the city or taking in one of Portland’s wacky evening adventures like Filmusik (take an animated film, remove the sound, then have local sound artists, voice actors, and musicians do the sound live…while you watch the movie).

Thanks again to everyone — it was a fantastic time!

Johnson Farmer’s Market

Tuesday, July 20th, 2010


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My husband is doing an art residency in Johnson, Vermont at the Vermont Studio Center for the last two weeks of July. He called me the other night thrilled that there is a farmer’s market every Tuesday in Johnson.  And the report was 100 % positive. He said it was amazing.  A number of local, organic farms with kale, tomatoes, green beans, garlic and prepared foods using local ingredients, like tamales, burritos and wood-oven pizza.

One farmer from neighboring town, Jeffersonville, was making organic icies out of fruits he harvested from his farm. He would steam the berries, add a little organic sugar for sweetness and away he went. He had the black currant and said it was out of this world.

But his favorite thing was the kale.  He cooked up our normal old way and had uncooked green beans on the side.  He said it reminded him of home.  Love that.

While he is in the making art in the hills of Vermont, I remain in sticky New York City making a refreshing salad from the beets I got from my CSA.

Roasted Beets with Pomegranate Cumin Vinaigrette

2 bunches of beets

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Trim the beet greens and reserve for another use. Place the beets unpeeled in a shallow pan with about ½ cup of water and cover with foil.  Roast for about 45 minutes of longer if the beets are large. A pairing knife should be able to slip through without resistance.

Drain beets and peel under cool water. Cut into chunks, dice or slice thinly and toss with the vinaigrette.

Vinaigrette

1 garlic clove
1/3 cup pomegrante juice
3 tablespoons lime juice
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
1/4 cup canola oil
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients up to the oil in a small bowl.  Gently whisk in the oils and season to taste with salt and pepper.

The Clarksdale Farmer’s Market

Sunday, July 11th, 2010

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This past week my husband, his family and I traveled to the Mississippi Delta. We went for a celebration of the patrons of The Box Project, to which my husband’s family has been involved for the past 24 years.

We ate our way through the south, feasting on our share of fried catfish, shrimp and grits, dry rub ribs, coleslaw and plenty of sweet tea.  Even though not always seasonal or healthy, it was delicious.

But when I visit a new place, the first thing I like to do is find the local farmer’s market.  It is always where I am happiest. You can learn so much about a place by speaking to the farmers and seeing what is grown locally. When we hit two farmers’ markets, we were offered a glimpse of what is thriving in the south this time of year.

The little farmer’s market in Clarksdale, Mississippi had some of the most gorgeous and delicious tomatoes I have ever had.  In fact, the farmer we spoke with said that he keeps a little shaker of salt in his truck to snack on his tomatoes.  We bought a couple and moved onto the Health Crops stand run by students from the local high school.  They are a part of a program where the local teenagers learn to garden.  A bottle of Kool Aid pickles was the inspiration of one of the students and once you tasted it you knew exactly what the brining liquid contained!

Here is Dennis’ recipe for his inspired Kool Aid Pickles:

-White vinegar
-Cherry Kool Aid
-Cucumbers

Allow the cucumbers to sit in the brining liquid for about two weeks for the best flavor.  Click here to see a video of Dennis’ own explanation.

Picking Our Dinner in East Hampton

Wednesday, June 30th, 2010

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Our good friend, Rob, hosted a reunion of sorts for eight of us at his house in East Hampton last weekend.  It was filled with early morning surf sessions, tennis matches, midday naps, late afternoon world cup viewings and late night dinners.

On Saturday morning, Gemma offered me the amazing opportunity to pick vegetables with her at a farm called Quail Hill.  I must’ve been the happiest human on the planet that day as the dirt filled my fingernails. I found myself surrounded by snap peas, fava beans, string beans, snow peas, english peas, garlic scapes, summer squash, zucchini flowers, radishes and many types of lettuce.  Raspberries were on the cusp of ripeness, too.

On the way home we stopped and a fish market to round out the meal.  It was such a treat to cook for a crowd and with the exception of lemons, olive oil and sea salt, we used only local, seasonal ingredients from the day.  Rob even had an herb garden from which I nipped basil, mint, lavender, sage and dill to finish off the salad and the grilled fish.  I’m including the recipe for the pesto we made with the basket of garlic scapes that we plucked from the farm.

Grilled Garlic Scape Pesto

A handful of garlic scapes (about 10)
1 cup of olive oil (some for coating the scapes before grilling)
1/3 cup pine nuts, toasted
1-2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons sea salt

Toss the scapes in olive oil to coat and place on a hot grill.  Grill until browned but not charred and remove from heat.  (Alternatively, you can broil the scapes)

Chop and place in a food processor with toasted pine nuts and pulse.  Drizzle in the olive oil and add water if necessary to desired texture. Season with sea salt.

A Cape Cod Frittata

Sunday, June 20th, 2010

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I am happily spending the weekend in Cape Cod.  Lucky for me, the farmer’s market just began for the season here and  I rode my old beach cruiser to check things out as soon as they opened on Saturday morning. Despite the fact that there were only five vendors there, I was thrilled to see the early summer offerings of the local Cape farms.  There were many varieties of lettuces, dark leafy greens, fresh currants, radishes, strawberries, snap peas, snow peas and fresh English peas.

I filled my bike basket with produce and biked home thinking about what I might make.  Since my family delights in a sort of grazing brunch, I thought I would make a vegetable frittata and bake it off in a square pan, cutting it into bite sized pieces so that people could nibble as they pleased.  I suppose I underestimated the grazing idea because within 30 minutes of setting out the lovely little ‘bites’, they all but disappeared!

Scallion, corn, chard and tomato frittata bites

2 ears of corn
1 bunch scallions, white and green parts sliced separately
3 garlic cloves, minced
4 tablespoons olive oil
I bunch swiss chard, de-stemmed, de-ribbed and chopped
1 pint of cherry tomatoes, halved
10 large eggs
sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Oil a 8×8 inch glass dish with olive oil.

Cut the corn kernels off their cobs.  In a saute pan, add a tablespoon of olive oil and sauté the corn until carmelized.  Remove from heat and set aside.

Wipe out the skillet and cook white part of scallions and garlic in 2 tablespoons oil in a over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add chard and sauté for another 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, sea salt and pepper to taste, and cook an additional minute. Add the corn and allow to cool.

Whisk together eggs, salt and pepper to taste. Stir the vegetable mixture and reserved scallion greens into the eggs. Transfer to prepared baking dish and bake about 40 minutes in the center of the preheated oven.

Remove from oven when set and allow to cool about 15 minutes.  Invert onto a cutting board and cut into 20 individual squares.

Yield: 20 bite sized servings

Salad Season

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010

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Salad season has arrived! Rather than spend time soaking beans and roasting vegetables, I have been brainstorming creative ways to eat raw leafy greens like arugula, sorrel and heirloom lettuces.  My favorite part of this experimentation has come in the form of vinaigrettes and dressings, a gentle coating of brightness that brings together all the components into a single glorious bite.

Recently I was asked to bring something for a BBQ.  It was a hot afternoon. I wanted to prepare a dish that would cool the heat of the day. I arrived to the farmer’s market late and the pickings were slim.  Fortunately, I found a few bunches of lemony sorrel, some baby butter lettuces and super sweet strawberries.

When I got home I saw that the windowsill herb garden that my husband planted for me was in full bloom. I had to use some of that gorgeous basil!  I decided to leave the greens to stand on their own and pair it with a bolder dressing. It came out fantastically and all that was left were the salad tongs and a drop of dressing.

Strawberry Basil Vinaigrette

1 pint of strawberries

¼ c fresh basil

½ c champagne vinegar

1 c extra virgin olive oil

sea salt & black pepper to taste

In a blender, combine the strawberries, basil and champagne vinegar.  Slowly add the olive oil to emulsify and add sea salt and fresh black pepper to taste.  Feel free to add additional water to thin to desired consistency.

Carrots from ABC

Wednesday, May 19th, 2010

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A part of birthday week involved dining at Jean-George’s new restaurant, ABC Kitchen. I was obsessed with going from the moment I read about its seasonal, local and sustainable theme.  We had a lovely meal.  The space is warm and inviting and they did their research when it came to sustainably sourced materials- from the wood beams on the ceiling (salvaged from a barn) to the locally sourced ceramic plates and the antique flatware.  The space complimented the locally sourced foods and biodynamic wine list.

One of the many highlights was the “Roast Carrot and Avocado Salad with Crunchy Seeds and Citrus”.  The carrots, roasted whole, were placed across the plate, blanketed by bits of avocado and micro greens, topped with the slightest dollop of crème fraiche and a sprinkling of toasted pumpkin and sunflower seeds.  It seemed so simple until I took a bite.  The flavor combinations were complex and delicious.  I was determined to come home and recreate such a perfect salad.

ABC Roasted Carrots

-Inspired by ABC Kitchen

A bunch of farmers’ market carrots
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
1 ½ teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and crushed
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
2 cloves of garlic, minced
¼ c extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt & freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Combine the orange juice, toasted and crushed cumin seeds, fresh thyme leaves, minced garlic and whisk in the olive oil.  Season to taste with sea salt and pepper.

Pour over the carrots and roast until they begin to caramelize, about 25 minutes.

Eat them by themselves, as a side dish or composed in a salad similar to the one they make at ABC Kitchen. They are a delight!