Archive for the ‘Restaurants’ Category

Talking Tilth @ Tilth

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

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Over duck burgers at Tilth in Seattle a few weeks ago I got to know my cousin’s fiancé, Luke. He’s the son of two of the Organic movement’s primary moving forces from the 70’s. He’s an amature chef and a foodie whose personal history is linked more directly to our country’s fight for a sustainable food system than anyone else I know.

Over our delicious dinner, I learned that Luke’s parents, Woody & Becky Deryckx were part of the formation of the Tilth conference. Tilth began as a means for advocating for agriculture that respected the land and the communities that lived there. It was one of the first sparks that started the Northwest’s organic movement.

Woody has continued as an organic farmer in Washington state, and has, over the years contributed in many ways to the support of sustainable agriculture. Tilth, meanhwile has grown drammaticlly and it’s chapters have created models for organic and sustainable practices, research, certification, composting, gardening, farmers markets, education, and more.

It was ironic and wonderful that we were discussing the history of this amazing organization that was founded by the family of the son I dined with at the restaurant that bore it’s name.

If so inspired, you can learn more about the history of Tilth here, and I encourage you to check out the restaurant Tilth if you’re ever in the Seattle area.

Weekend in Vermont

Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010

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Vermont seems to be one of those states that is home to the local and seasonal movement. Gorgeous red barns, rolling green hills and everywhere you turn you can get local cheese, grass-fed meats, fresh bread, delicious corn, arugula and of course, blueberries.

This past weekend, I met my husband up in Burlington. On Friday night, we splurged and ate at the Inn at Shelburne Farms. It was absolutely incredible.  Before we even opened the menus our lovely waitress, Emily, explained that over 60% of the menu is not only local, but grown or raised on the premises of the farm.

We started with their Feast of the Fields appetizer that changes nightly. This was a selection of whatever was harvested from their land that particular day.  Friday night was a mix of roasted zucchini and eggplant, radishes, three different types of cucumbers, cheese and a homemade eggplant spread. Super beautiful and delish.  We also began with a locally smoked cavendish quail that sat atop a warm corn salad.

For entrees, he ordered a wild striped bass in a roasted cherry tomato and roasted zucchini ragout and I had a grilled pork tenderloin with a blueberry sage sauce and a cauliflower-vidalia gratin.  My husband was doubtful about the fruit sauce with the meat but when he took his first bite all doubts immediately disappeared. Our dessert was a raspberry lemon curd tart and a trio of homemade ice creams and a sorbet:  a scoop of each corn and cheese ice cream and a raspberry sorbet.

We needed to work off dinner the next day so we climbed to the summit of Camel’s Hump mountain and then headed to the famous Farmer’s Diner in Quechee.  The entire menu is a based upon what they can source from within 70 miles and the restaurant is in an old Airstream trailer. The food was great and it was fun.

So if you head to Vermont anytime soon, you will have plenty of great eating to do, most of which is effortlessly local and seasonal.

Seattle to Portland Roundup

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010

My week of roaming has come to an end, and what can I say? I had a blast. It was wonderful to reconnect with so many old friends, to visit them in their homes, and let them guide me to the best places from Seattle to Olympia to Portland. There were so many great stops along the way that I thought it unfair not to share a few of my favorites…

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First stop, Seattle: I ate very well in Seattle. In fact, I don’t remember doing much of anything else. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I started right off with lunch at Emmer & Rye, then later that evening moved on to dinner at at Tilth — also a favorite for seasonal cuisine. We had duck burgers with homemade potato chips rendered in duck fat. Need I say more? Over the next two days, I visited the farmer’s market where I ate the largest snap pea I’d ever seen, tried my first cheese curd at Beechers, visited The Seafood Festival in Ballard and snacked on the most delicious garlic fries ever while watching the sun set as the Mariners actually BEAT the Yankees.

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Then, Olympia: I spent most of my time in Olympia enjoying the view from my friend’s amazing cottage on the Sound. We ate raspberries from the garden, No Woman cheese we picked up at Beecher’s the day before and amazingly fresh salmon grilled on a wooden plank. The little time I spent in town, was mostly confined to little French pastry and coffee shop called The Bread Peddler. It reminded me of the little bakery around the corner from my place in NY, so I felt compelled to sample their coffee, pastries and a baguette (to go with the cheese, of course).

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The final stop, Portland: The first thing I have to say about Portland — which is clear to anyone who has ever visited is that FOOD CARTS ROCK! These mini food havens allow for experimentation that has clearly led to a unique food culture — and a cult-like dedication among many of the locals. While I could have camped out behind Garden State eating their Chickpea Sandwiches my whole visit, I did venture out to see what the rest of the city had to offer. Here’s what I found: Pastaworks for amazing bread, cheese, salami, sweets and high-end packaged goods, Powell’s Books for Home and Garden (imagine Powell’s, then strip away all the stuff you’ll never read), Townshend’s Tea for a great respite from all the eating, The Meadow for the most incredible selection of salts imaginable (plus a healthy selection of chocolate..and flowers), Ruby Jewel for design-your-own ice cream sandwiches, and of course Pistils Nursery for all your urban farming needs. When I wasn’t eating, I was either drinking at one of the countless brew-pubs in the city or taking in one of Portland’s wacky evening adventures like Filmusik (take an animated film, remove the sound, then have local sound artists, voice actors, and musicians do the sound live…while you watch the movie).

Thanks again to everyone — it was a fantastic time!

Carrots from ABC

Wednesday, May 19th, 2010

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A part of birthday week involved dining at Jean-George’s new restaurant, ABC Kitchen. I was obsessed with going from the moment I read about its seasonal, local and sustainable theme.  We had a lovely meal.  The space is warm and inviting and they did their research when it came to sustainably sourced materials- from the wood beams on the ceiling (salvaged from a barn) to the locally sourced ceramic plates and the antique flatware.  The space complimented the locally sourced foods and biodynamic wine list.

One of the many highlights was the “Roast Carrot and Avocado Salad with Crunchy Seeds and Citrus”.  The carrots, roasted whole, were placed across the plate, blanketed by bits of avocado and micro greens, topped with the slightest dollop of crème fraiche and a sprinkling of toasted pumpkin and sunflower seeds.  It seemed so simple until I took a bite.  The flavor combinations were complex and delicious.  I was determined to come home and recreate such a perfect salad.

ABC Roasted Carrots

-Inspired by ABC Kitchen

A bunch of farmers’ market carrots
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
1 ½ teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and crushed
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
2 cloves of garlic, minced
¼ c extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt & freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Combine the orange juice, toasted and crushed cumin seeds, fresh thyme leaves, minced garlic and whisk in the olive oil.  Season to taste with sea salt and pepper.

Pour over the carrots and roast until they begin to caramelize, about 25 minutes.

Eat them by themselves, as a side dish or composed in a salad similar to the one they make at ABC Kitchen. They are a delight!


A Burger That’s Worth the Trek

Monday, April 5th, 2010

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I was in New Paltz, New York this weekend for a little early season rock climbing. The weather was perfect, so we were totally expecting to have a wonderful climb. We were not, however, expecting to eat as well as we did. My friend A., a New Paltz local, recommended that we give her most recent discovery, 36 Main, a try. Lured by her raves about the Hangar Steak Burger, J. and I walked down to the edge of town to give it a try. Needless to say, we were not disappointed. This restaurant / wine bar, just about an hour and a half from Manhattan, delivered the tastiest hamburger either of us critical New Yorkers had ever tried. It was perfectly juicy, with an herbed green curry slaw, ginger aioli, olive and onion ciabatta bun and shoestring fries on the side that we snacked on into the next day…not wanting to let any go to waste.

36 Main works with a seasonal menu that is quirky and vibrant thanks to their talented young chef, Adam Sternberg. The owner, Kathy Combs insists on using as much locally sourced food as possible and has created a homey, warm atmosphere — perfectly appropriate for one of New Paltz’s more upscale eateries. We’ve put this restaurant on the Local Food Map, and think it’s certainly worth checking out if you’re anywhere within striking distance!

Winter Grills at Blue Hill

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Last night I had the opportunity to visit my favorite restaurant, Blue Hill at Stone Barns for an educational course on winter grilling. The 5-course menu included grilled parsnips, a slider-style vegi burger, grilled lobster, blue hill’s incomparable heritage pork, and a dessert that incorporated “grilled milk”.

The food was fantastic as usual, but what made this a truly unique experience was the opportunity to hear directly from Dan Barber, the creative director of Blue Hill, and his grilling chef, Adam Kaye. All the food from the evening was prepared on a custom-designed grill which traps all the juices and allows for adjustable height in the heating surface. The owner of Grillworks, Benjamin Eisendrath, who makes The Grillery was there to discuss his product and the inspiration behind it. We also heard  from an expert in carbon sequestration and use who discussed the process of carbonizing bones for use as charcoal. He and Dan talked about the opportunities this presented to reduce waste, provide great fertilizer for the fruits and vegis grown on the farm, and perhaps the potential to infuse new flavor elements into the smokiness of grilled foods.

It was a truly memorable meal that was as inspirational as it was delicious. It makes me so happy to know that there are people like Dan and his staff who not only aim to  maximize flavor, but are also always looking for new and inventive ways to reduce waste and increase productivity. And it’s such a privilege to be able to take part in their journey towards what may become a model for the 21st century way of eating.

Get Your Own Shake Shack

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

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I love finding new restaurants that source local and seasonal food, and I’m often willing to pay a little more when I know I’m supporting the local economy. However, eating well shouldn’t be a privilege only for those who can afford a meal at Blue Hill or Telepan. We’re not changing the food system if only a select few get to partake in the rewards of our hard work. That’s why I’m always thrilled to hear when “low-brow” food culture infiltrates this somewhat exclusive world of local and seasonal sourcing. We’ve received good news today on this front as the New York Times reported that Danny Meyer will be expanding his famed Shake Shack restaurant franchise to more cities along the east coast.

The classic American burgers and hot dogs at the Shake Shack are made with locally sourced ingredients — and the somewhat temporary look of the place is intended to give us the feeling of a modern day roadside burger stop. The lines here in the city are usually long, but there’s always a sense of being a part of something very special that is worth the wait. If you’re in Vermont, you may also want to check out one of the  The Farmer’s Diner locations, a truly homespun experience that does their best to source 75% of their product from with in 70 miles of each location. What a wonderful world it would be if every roadside burger joint operated on this philosophy…

Everybody Loves This Pizza

Wednesday, November 11th, 2009

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Ever thought you’d have a bite of a seasonally inspired pizza?  Me neither. After spending time in the Heritage Radio studio for our interview with Nicole on her show, Hot Grease, she treated us to pizza at Roberta’s.  The radio’s studios are two converted shipping containers that have been sustainably outfitted and sit in the back section of Roberta’s garden. (Did I mention that Alice Waters help fund a rooftop garden over the studio too?)

Now I have to be honest – I love pizza as much as the next person, but when I think of lunch, it isn’t the first thing that comes to mind.  But I sure am happy I hung around the studio to enjoy and chat after the show. Nicole recommended her favorite pie on the menu, “Good Girl”, which is a thin-crusted brick oven pizza covered in my favorite vegetable, kale, along with slivers of fresh garlic, heritage pork sausage and taleggio.  You could say I was pretty happy.

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Pt Reyes Station, California: An Autumn Dinner

Wednesday, October 14th, 2009

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My husband and I have been in Northern California for the past week. Whenever we return to San Francisco we organize ourselves around socializing with our friends, meals out and at least one quick trip to Marin County, my husband’s birthplace.  Our dear friends, Amy and Rob, live in Mill Valley and are always up for a food adventure.  We decided to drive to the town of Point Reyes Station in West Marin for dinner at Stellina, a restaurant that is known for guiding its culinary style via the local and seasonal foods.  When I go to an establishment like this, I always try to learn from them. How do they stay creative with the local and seasonal foods?  Is the menu repetitive?  What can I do from my neighborhood farmer’s market that is similar or inspired by this meal?

It was chilly and we were hungry!  The dining room was warm and inviting.  We settled into a four-top right in front of the open kitchen. We ordered a bottle of spicy house red wine and a round of appetizers to share to begin the meal, followed by our delicious entrées. The highlights were:

“Beans and Greens” – a simple plate of rosemary infused white beans and braised rainbow chard

Seared Tomales Bay sardines with ancho cress and meyer lemon

Fulton Valley chicken thighs with sage, organic celery root & Marin Farms kale

Marin Sun Farms goat with creamy herbed polenta & braised greens

All the ingredients were very locally sourced.  The bottom of the menu says:

We are dedicated in our support of Marin County local, organic and sustainably produced foods.

They lived up to it.  Great meal. The question was now what was I going to cook when I got home?  And what will you?

Eating through San Francisco

Sunday, September 6th, 2009

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As a college student sustaining myself off of pizza and M&Ms, I did not appreciate the local food culture of San Francisco. Though I lived here for four years, I never took advantage of the farmer’s markets. And I suppose because of my limited budget, I never treated myself to any of the fantastic restaurants that specialize in local cuisine. Since I moved away, however, I have come to realize just how much I was missing. So with this opportunity to come back I am determined to see (and eat) as much of the amazing foods I missed out on.

Jeff, my old friend from school, got me off to a fantastic start. We started with killer $6.00 burritos from Taqueria Cancun — more avocado than I’ve had in years, and enough food for three meals. Then to Bi-Rite Creamery where between the two of us we sampled 4 different totally amazing flavors of ice cream. I had the salty caramel + vanilla (not to be underestimated…it was amaaaaazing) and Jeff let his feminine side show with honey lavender + white chocolate raspberry. Since we were in the neighborhood, we stopped by the legendary Tartine to get croissants for the next day’s breakfast. The rest of the afternoon was spent digesting. It’s wonderful to be back!