Archive for the ‘At The Market’ Category

Weekend in Vermont

Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010

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Vermont seems to be one of those states that is home to the local and seasonal movement. Gorgeous red barns, rolling green hills and everywhere you turn you can get local cheese, grass-fed meats, fresh bread, delicious corn, arugula and of course, blueberries.

This past weekend, I met my husband up in Burlington. On Friday night, we splurged and ate at the Inn at Shelburne Farms. It was absolutely incredible.  Before we even opened the menus our lovely waitress, Emily, explained that over 60% of the menu is not only local, but grown or raised on the premises of the farm.

We started with their Feast of the Fields appetizer that changes nightly. This was a selection of whatever was harvested from their land that particular day.  Friday night was a mix of roasted zucchini and eggplant, radishes, three different types of cucumbers, cheese and a homemade eggplant spread. Super beautiful and delish.  We also began with a locally smoked cavendish quail that sat atop a warm corn salad.

For entrees, he ordered a wild striped bass in a roasted cherry tomato and roasted zucchini ragout and I had a grilled pork tenderloin with a blueberry sage sauce and a cauliflower-vidalia gratin.  My husband was doubtful about the fruit sauce with the meat but when he took his first bite all doubts immediately disappeared. Our dessert was a raspberry lemon curd tart and a trio of homemade ice creams and a sorbet:  a scoop of each corn and cheese ice cream and a raspberry sorbet.

We needed to work off dinner the next day so we climbed to the summit of Camel’s Hump mountain and then headed to the famous Farmer’s Diner in Quechee.  The entire menu is a based upon what they can source from within 70 miles and the restaurant is in an old Airstream trailer. The food was great and it was fun.

So if you head to Vermont anytime soon, you will have plenty of great eating to do, most of which is effortlessly local and seasonal.

Seattle to Portland Roundup

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010

My week of roaming has come to an end, and what can I say? I had a blast. It was wonderful to reconnect with so many old friends, to visit them in their homes, and let them guide me to the best places from Seattle to Olympia to Portland. There were so many great stops along the way that I thought it unfair not to share a few of my favorites…

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First stop, Seattle: I ate very well in Seattle. In fact, I don’t remember doing much of anything else. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I started right off with lunch at Emmer & Rye, then later that evening moved on to dinner at at Tilth — also a favorite for seasonal cuisine. We had duck burgers with homemade potato chips rendered in duck fat. Need I say more? Over the next two days, I visited the farmer’s market where I ate the largest snap pea I’d ever seen, tried my first cheese curd at Beechers, visited The Seafood Festival in Ballard and snacked on the most delicious garlic fries ever while watching the sun set as the Mariners actually BEAT the Yankees.

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Then, Olympia: I spent most of my time in Olympia enjoying the view from my friend’s amazing cottage on the Sound. We ate raspberries from the garden, No Woman cheese we picked up at Beecher’s the day before and amazingly fresh salmon grilled on a wooden plank. The little time I spent in town, was mostly confined to little French pastry and coffee shop called The Bread Peddler. It reminded me of the little bakery around the corner from my place in NY, so I felt compelled to sample their coffee, pastries and a baguette (to go with the cheese, of course).

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The final stop, Portland: The first thing I have to say about Portland — which is clear to anyone who has ever visited is that FOOD CARTS ROCK! These mini food havens allow for experimentation that has clearly led to a unique food culture — and a cult-like dedication among many of the locals. While I could have camped out behind Garden State eating their Chickpea Sandwiches my whole visit, I did venture out to see what the rest of the city had to offer. Here’s what I found: Pastaworks for amazing bread, cheese, salami, sweets and high-end packaged goods, Powell’s Books for Home and Garden (imagine Powell’s, then strip away all the stuff you’ll never read), Townshend’s Tea for a great respite from all the eating, The Meadow for the most incredible selection of salts imaginable (plus a healthy selection of chocolate..and flowers), Ruby Jewel for design-your-own ice cream sandwiches, and of course Pistils Nursery for all your urban farming needs. When I wasn’t eating, I was either drinking at one of the countless brew-pubs in the city or taking in one of Portland’s wacky evening adventures like Filmusik (take an animated film, remove the sound, then have local sound artists, voice actors, and musicians do the sound live…while you watch the movie).

Thanks again to everyone — it was a fantastic time!

Johnson Farmer’s Market

Tuesday, July 20th, 2010


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My husband is doing an art residency in Johnson, Vermont at the Vermont Studio Center for the last two weeks of July. He called me the other night thrilled that there is a farmer’s market every Tuesday in Johnson.  And the report was 100 % positive. He said it was amazing.  A number of local, organic farms with kale, tomatoes, green beans, garlic and prepared foods using local ingredients, like tamales, burritos and wood-oven pizza.

One farmer from neighboring town, Jeffersonville, was making organic icies out of fruits he harvested from his farm. He would steam the berries, add a little organic sugar for sweetness and away he went. He had the black currant and said it was out of this world.

But his favorite thing was the kale.  He cooked up our normal old way and had uncooked green beans on the side.  He said it reminded him of home.  Love that.

While he is in the making art in the hills of Vermont, I remain in sticky New York City making a refreshing salad from the beets I got from my CSA.

Roasted Beets with Pomegranate Cumin Vinaigrette

2 bunches of beets

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Trim the beet greens and reserve for another use. Place the beets unpeeled in a shallow pan with about ½ cup of water and cover with foil.  Roast for about 45 minutes of longer if the beets are large. A pairing knife should be able to slip through without resistance.

Drain beets and peel under cool water. Cut into chunks, dice or slice thinly and toss with the vinaigrette.

Vinaigrette

1 garlic clove
1/3 cup pomegrante juice
3 tablespoons lime juice
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
1/4 cup canola oil
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients up to the oil in a small bowl.  Gently whisk in the oils and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Chew Something New: Sea Beans

Monday, July 12th, 2010

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I was in Seattle over the weekend visiting friends and getting to know the city again after quite a few years away. My first stop was lunch at Emmer & Rye in Queen Anne with Anthony Nicalo, a chef and founder of Farmstead Wines. He’s as passionate about redefining the way we look at our food and food system as anybody I’ve ever met, and was full of fantastic ideas on how to better educate consumers and bring openness to the food system.

We had a lovely conversation (as expected), and a fantastic meal, but there was one menu item that piqued my interest in particular. Paired with the seared tuna and a gribiche sauce, sea beans struck me as the foreign entity amongst familiar west coast fare. The next day, they turned up again at the farmer’s market with a great little explanation (see photo above). I’ve come to think of them as the fiddlehead of the coast — a funny little green vegetable that is appreciated by a few dedicated locals and not really known far beyond their natural growing grounds. They are a bit like a salty asparagus, and are apparently common in salads along the coast this time of year.

If you’re interested in giving them a go, this recipe for Black Roasted Cod with Sea Beans and Oysters looked delicious. Chow Hound also has a list of other great uses. If you’re near the the coast, keep your eyes open for these quirky vegetables at your local market, otherwise you can order them any time here.

The Clarksdale Farmer’s Market

Sunday, July 11th, 2010

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This past week my husband, his family and I traveled to the Mississippi Delta. We went for a celebration of the patrons of The Box Project, to which my husband’s family has been involved for the past 24 years.

We ate our way through the south, feasting on our share of fried catfish, shrimp and grits, dry rub ribs, coleslaw and plenty of sweet tea.  Even though not always seasonal or healthy, it was delicious.

But when I visit a new place, the first thing I like to do is find the local farmer’s market.  It is always where I am happiest. You can learn so much about a place by speaking to the farmers and seeing what is grown locally. When we hit two farmers’ markets, we were offered a glimpse of what is thriving in the south this time of year.

The little farmer’s market in Clarksdale, Mississippi had some of the most gorgeous and delicious tomatoes I have ever had.  In fact, the farmer we spoke with said that he keeps a little shaker of salt in his truck to snack on his tomatoes.  We bought a couple and moved onto the Health Crops stand run by students from the local high school.  They are a part of a program where the local teenagers learn to garden.  A bottle of Kool Aid pickles was the inspiration of one of the students and once you tasted it you knew exactly what the brining liquid contained!

Here is Dennis’ recipe for his inspired Kool Aid Pickles:

-White vinegar
-Cherry Kool Aid
-Cucumbers

Allow the cucumbers to sit in the brining liquid for about two weeks for the best flavor.  Click here to see a video of Dennis’ own explanation.

Salad Season

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010

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Salad season has arrived! Rather than spend time soaking beans and roasting vegetables, I have been brainstorming creative ways to eat raw leafy greens like arugula, sorrel and heirloom lettuces.  My favorite part of this experimentation has come in the form of vinaigrettes and dressings, a gentle coating of brightness that brings together all the components into a single glorious bite.

Recently I was asked to bring something for a BBQ.  It was a hot afternoon. I wanted to prepare a dish that would cool the heat of the day. I arrived to the farmer’s market late and the pickings were slim.  Fortunately, I found a few bunches of lemony sorrel, some baby butter lettuces and super sweet strawberries.

When I got home I saw that the windowsill herb garden that my husband planted for me was in full bloom. I had to use some of that gorgeous basil!  I decided to leave the greens to stand on their own and pair it with a bolder dressing. It came out fantastically and all that was left were the salad tongs and a drop of dressing.

Strawberry Basil Vinaigrette

1 pint of strawberries

¼ c fresh basil

½ c champagne vinegar

1 c extra virgin olive oil

sea salt & black pepper to taste

In a blender, combine the strawberries, basil and champagne vinegar.  Slowly add the olive oil to emulsify and add sea salt and fresh black pepper to taste.  Feel free to add additional water to thin to desired consistency.

Sweet Spring Color

Saturday, May 29th, 2010

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I had my first strawberry of the season today. And my first sugar snap pea. Sigh. Finally the market is delivering on the promise of spring — with sweet flavors and vibrant colors. The people were out too, soaking up the warm sunshine and brushing bare shoulders as they jostled for space at their favorite vendor. I came home with bags overflowing with rhubarb, asparagus, kale, rooftop honey, beautiful chives, bok choy and of course strawberries and peas. I’m also giving a couple of potted herbs a go — in hopes of enjoying some homemade mint tea and basil-adorned tomatoes (once they come along). Hopefully my cat won’t resent the new plants taking up some space on his window sill.

Carrots from ABC

Wednesday, May 19th, 2010

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A part of birthday week involved dining at Jean-George’s new restaurant, ABC Kitchen. I was obsessed with going from the moment I read about its seasonal, local and sustainable theme.  We had a lovely meal.  The space is warm and inviting and they did their research when it came to sustainably sourced materials- from the wood beams on the ceiling (salvaged from a barn) to the locally sourced ceramic plates and the antique flatware.  The space complimented the locally sourced foods and biodynamic wine list.

One of the many highlights was the “Roast Carrot and Avocado Salad with Crunchy Seeds and Citrus”.  The carrots, roasted whole, were placed across the plate, blanketed by bits of avocado and micro greens, topped with the slightest dollop of crème fraiche and a sprinkling of toasted pumpkin and sunflower seeds.  It seemed so simple until I took a bite.  The flavor combinations were complex and delicious.  I was determined to come home and recreate such a perfect salad.

ABC Roasted Carrots

-Inspired by ABC Kitchen

A bunch of farmers’ market carrots
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
1 ½ teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and crushed
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
2 cloves of garlic, minced
¼ c extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt & freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Combine the orange juice, toasted and crushed cumin seeds, fresh thyme leaves, minced garlic and whisk in the olive oil.  Season to taste with sea salt and pepper.

Pour over the carrots and roast until they begin to caramelize, about 25 minutes.

Eat them by themselves, as a side dish or composed in a salad similar to the one they make at ABC Kitchen. They are a delight!


Picking Fish

Thursday, May 13th, 2010

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There’s a lot of talk within the local food movement about the high impact that eating meat and poultry can have on both the environment and our health. There is less said, however, about fish and other water dwelling species. When it comes to choosing fish there are many seemingly contradictory factors to consider. Dwindling fish populations, high mercury levels and the benefits and issues with commercial farming are just a few. I personally still prefer to eat fish caught from the wild because many of the farmed fish are fed corn. To me, this is just another infuriating result of our strange government subsidies that favor a few “cash crops”. The fact that cheap corn is being fed to cattle is bad enough, but that it has also become a major food source for fish just blows my mind. I’d prefer to either catch the fish myself (and have my dad clean it for me) or support a local fisherman at the farmer’s market. I felt a little guilty paying $10 a pound for the rainbow trout I bought since we used to get it for the cost of a fishing license when I was young. The taste was the same as I remember, though, and in the end I think it was worth the cost to experience the real thing and support a small local fisherman. When considering your fish consumption options, you might check out the Blue Ocean Institute’s online guide. It’s a fantastic place to easily weigh the health and environmental risks of your favorite seafood. And of course, always ask whomever you are buying from about their fishing and farming practices.

The Rhuby Red

Sunday, May 9th, 2010

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It was my birthday this week and I always like to have a little soiree. This year I wanted to add a drop of something that would be celebratory and usher in the abundance of goodness from our local farmer’s market.

I thought of a taste that would sing springtime and match well with sweet and bubbly prosecco. I came up with rhubarb.

I made a lot.
It’s all gone.
I think it worked.
It only took a few drops.
And it was a great birthday.

Rhubarb Simple Syrup

1 cup superfine sugar
1 cup water
1 cup rhubarb, cut into ½ inch pieces

Throw all the ingredients into a medium sized saucepan.  Bring to a boil and then turn to a low simmer for about 20 minutes.  Strain the pulpy fruit from the syrup and discard (or save to top yogurt or ice cream).  The syrup will keep about a week in the refrigerator.