Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

Tartufo Nero-Italy Trip part 1

Wednesday, September 1st, 2010

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My husband and I have just returned from two glorious weeks in Italy.   The concept of eating local, seasonal food is just a part of the life of an Italian. There is an amazing pride in the land that you can taste in every bite.

We began our trip driving through the countryside of Umbria.  It is the region that is bordered by Tuscany to the West and Le March and Abruzzo to the East.   The gorgeous green hills are dotted with picturesque villages and towns filled with farmer’s markets, regional museums and of course surrounded by farmland.  We stayed with good friends in the lovely hillside town of Trevi. They took us on two days of incredible eating, drinking and fresco viewing.  One day for lunch, they led us to an unassuming family run restaurant in the village of Spoleto.  We learned that it was black truffle season, known as the tartufo nero. We ordered the homemade tagliatelle with truffles, risotto and the porcini and farro soup.   The photo above was my husband’s dish, after a very generous shaving of fresh truffle, unheard of in our local restaurants in NYC (or costing upwards of $100 a pop).  I don’t think I’ve ever seen him so wide-eyed in my life! You can only imagine how amazing it tasted.

Seattle to Portland Roundup

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010

My week of roaming has come to an end, and what can I say? I had a blast. It was wonderful to reconnect with so many old friends, to visit them in their homes, and let them guide me to the best places from Seattle to Olympia to Portland. There were so many great stops along the way that I thought it unfair not to share a few of my favorites…

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First stop, Seattle: I ate very well in Seattle. In fact, I don’t remember doing much of anything else. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I started right off with lunch at Emmer & Rye, then later that evening moved on to dinner at at Tilth — also a favorite for seasonal cuisine. We had duck burgers with homemade potato chips rendered in duck fat. Need I say more? Over the next two days, I visited the farmer’s market where I ate the largest snap pea I’d ever seen, tried my first cheese curd at Beechers, visited The Seafood Festival in Ballard and snacked on the most delicious garlic fries ever while watching the sun set as the Mariners actually BEAT the Yankees.

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Then, Olympia: I spent most of my time in Olympia enjoying the view from my friend’s amazing cottage on the Sound. We ate raspberries from the garden, No Woman cheese we picked up at Beecher’s the day before and amazingly fresh salmon grilled on a wooden plank. The little time I spent in town, was mostly confined to little French pastry and coffee shop called The Bread Peddler. It reminded me of the little bakery around the corner from my place in NY, so I felt compelled to sample their coffee, pastries and a baguette (to go with the cheese, of course).

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The final stop, Portland: The first thing I have to say about Portland — which is clear to anyone who has ever visited is that FOOD CARTS ROCK! These mini food havens allow for experimentation that has clearly led to a unique food culture — and a cult-like dedication among many of the locals. While I could have camped out behind Garden State eating their Chickpea Sandwiches my whole visit, I did venture out to see what the rest of the city had to offer. Here’s what I found: Pastaworks for amazing bread, cheese, salami, sweets and high-end packaged goods, Powell’s Books for Home and Garden (imagine Powell’s, then strip away all the stuff you’ll never read), Townshend’s Tea for a great respite from all the eating, The Meadow for the most incredible selection of salts imaginable (plus a healthy selection of chocolate..and flowers), Ruby Jewel for design-your-own ice cream sandwiches, and of course Pistils Nursery for all your urban farming needs. When I wasn’t eating, I was either drinking at one of the countless brew-pubs in the city or taking in one of Portland’s wacky evening adventures like Filmusik (take an animated film, remove the sound, then have local sound artists, voice actors, and musicians do the sound live…while you watch the movie).

Thanks again to everyone — it was a fantastic time!

Johnson Farmer’s Market

Tuesday, July 20th, 2010


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My husband is doing an art residency in Johnson, Vermont at the Vermont Studio Center for the last two weeks of July. He called me the other night thrilled that there is a farmer’s market every Tuesday in Johnson.  And the report was 100 % positive. He said it was amazing.  A number of local, organic farms with kale, tomatoes, green beans, garlic and prepared foods using local ingredients, like tamales, burritos and wood-oven pizza.

One farmer from neighboring town, Jeffersonville, was making organic icies out of fruits he harvested from his farm. He would steam the berries, add a little organic sugar for sweetness and away he went. He had the black currant and said it was out of this world.

But his favorite thing was the kale.  He cooked up our normal old way and had uncooked green beans on the side.  He said it reminded him of home.  Love that.

While he is in the making art in the hills of Vermont, I remain in sticky New York City making a refreshing salad from the beets I got from my CSA.

Roasted Beets with Pomegranate Cumin Vinaigrette

2 bunches of beets

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Trim the beet greens and reserve for another use. Place the beets unpeeled in a shallow pan with about ½ cup of water and cover with foil.  Roast for about 45 minutes of longer if the beets are large. A pairing knife should be able to slip through without resistance.

Drain beets and peel under cool water. Cut into chunks, dice or slice thinly and toss with the vinaigrette.

Vinaigrette

1 garlic clove
1/3 cup pomegrante juice
3 tablespoons lime juice
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
1/4 cup canola oil
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients up to the oil in a small bowl.  Gently whisk in the oils and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Chew Something New: Sea Beans

Monday, July 12th, 2010

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I was in Seattle over the weekend visiting friends and getting to know the city again after quite a few years away. My first stop was lunch at Emmer & Rye in Queen Anne with Anthony Nicalo, a chef and founder of Farmstead Wines. He’s as passionate about redefining the way we look at our food and food system as anybody I’ve ever met, and was full of fantastic ideas on how to better educate consumers and bring openness to the food system.

We had a lovely conversation (as expected), and a fantastic meal, but there was one menu item that piqued my interest in particular. Paired with the seared tuna and a gribiche sauce, sea beans struck me as the foreign entity amongst familiar west coast fare. The next day, they turned up again at the farmer’s market with a great little explanation (see photo above). I’ve come to think of them as the fiddlehead of the coast — a funny little green vegetable that is appreciated by a few dedicated locals and not really known far beyond their natural growing grounds. They are a bit like a salty asparagus, and are apparently common in salads along the coast this time of year.

If you’re interested in giving them a go, this recipe for Black Roasted Cod with Sea Beans and Oysters looked delicious. Chow Hound also has a list of other great uses. If you’re near the the coast, keep your eyes open for these quirky vegetables at your local market, otherwise you can order them any time here.

The Clarksdale Farmer’s Market

Sunday, July 11th, 2010

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This past week my husband, his family and I traveled to the Mississippi Delta. We went for a celebration of the patrons of The Box Project, to which my husband’s family has been involved for the past 24 years.

We ate our way through the south, feasting on our share of fried catfish, shrimp and grits, dry rub ribs, coleslaw and plenty of sweet tea.  Even though not always seasonal or healthy, it was delicious.

But when I visit a new place, the first thing I like to do is find the local farmer’s market.  It is always where I am happiest. You can learn so much about a place by speaking to the farmers and seeing what is grown locally. When we hit two farmers’ markets, we were offered a glimpse of what is thriving in the south this time of year.

The little farmer’s market in Clarksdale, Mississippi had some of the most gorgeous and delicious tomatoes I have ever had.  In fact, the farmer we spoke with said that he keeps a little shaker of salt in his truck to snack on his tomatoes.  We bought a couple and moved onto the Health Crops stand run by students from the local high school.  They are a part of a program where the local teenagers learn to garden.  A bottle of Kool Aid pickles was the inspiration of one of the students and once you tasted it you knew exactly what the brining liquid contained!

Here is Dennis’ recipe for his inspired Kool Aid Pickles:

-White vinegar
-Cherry Kool Aid
-Cucumbers

Allow the cucumbers to sit in the brining liquid for about two weeks for the best flavor.  Click here to see a video of Dennis’ own explanation.

Pt Reyes Station, California: An Autumn Dinner

Wednesday, October 14th, 2009

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My husband and I have been in Northern California for the past week. Whenever we return to San Francisco we organize ourselves around socializing with our friends, meals out and at least one quick trip to Marin County, my husband’s birthplace.  Our dear friends, Amy and Rob, live in Mill Valley and are always up for a food adventure.  We decided to drive to the town of Point Reyes Station in West Marin for dinner at Stellina, a restaurant that is known for guiding its culinary style via the local and seasonal foods.  When I go to an establishment like this, I always try to learn from them. How do they stay creative with the local and seasonal foods?  Is the menu repetitive?  What can I do from my neighborhood farmer’s market that is similar or inspired by this meal?

It was chilly and we were hungry!  The dining room was warm and inviting.  We settled into a four-top right in front of the open kitchen. We ordered a bottle of spicy house red wine and a round of appetizers to share to begin the meal, followed by our delicious entrées. The highlights were:

“Beans and Greens” – a simple plate of rosemary infused white beans and braised rainbow chard

Seared Tomales Bay sardines with ancho cress and meyer lemon

Fulton Valley chicken thighs with sage, organic celery root & Marin Farms kale

Marin Sun Farms goat with creamy herbed polenta & braised greens

All the ingredients were very locally sourced.  The bottom of the menu says:

We are dedicated in our support of Marin County local, organic and sustainably produced foods.

They lived up to it.  Great meal. The question was now what was I going to cook when I got home?  And what will you?

Ithaca, New York: Farmers Market Heaven

Friday, September 11th, 2009

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We just visited our close friends Jason and Kadie and their daughter Lucia who live in Ithaca, New York.  For of those of you who aren’t familiar with this region of the country, it’s well known for not only the awesome gorges, canyons and swimming holes but also for the abundance of local and seasonal food. The Ithaca Farmer’s Market is a beautiful example of what every town should have across the country. It’s an open-air market, filled with all sorts of produce as well as delicious prepared foods from local vendors.  We arrived midday and it was packed!  The community really supports the community farms. For example, this organization offers “Harvest Dinners” at local farms. Jason and Kadie belong to a CSA that provides them with a ton of delicious fruits and vegetables, some of which they pick themselves. So, as I was finishing my Veggie Somosa I came across some of the most beautiful, multi-colored beans. I had to grab a bunch, and here’s what we did with them:

Farmer’s Market Inspired String Bean Salad

2 lbs multi colored string beans, yellow wax, purple or romano
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 ½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Freshly chopped tarragon
Sea salt + freshly ground pepper

Instructions

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Trim the tips off the beans and drop into boiling water for about a minute or two but still keeping them snappy.  Drain the beans from the water and allow them to cool by scattering them in a single layer on a clean dishtowel.

In a small bowl, whisk the lemon juice, olive oil, fresh tarragon, salt and pepper.

Toss the vinaigrette with the warm beans and eat immediately!

Martha’s Vineyard: The Farm Institute

Sunday, August 30th, 2009

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I think that one of the most important things we can do is teach each other about the merits of local, seasonal food and the importance of organic farming.  One of the gems on Martha’s Vineyard that does this is called The Farm Institute. They are a working farm that also doubles as a school, teaching both adult and children. I love this, and think it is so important.

Martha’s Vineyard: Island Markets

Thursday, August 27th, 2009

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I love islands. I love being surrounded by water on all sides. But my favorite part about being on an island is discovering the local farmer’s markets.  It provides me with my culinary map for my stay.

Martha’s Vineyard is filled with farms and pasture; it is one of my favorite places to visit. Upon arriving, we drove directly to the farmers market. Freshly cut zinnias in rusty tomato cans, beach plum jam, tomatoes in every shape, color, and size, and bunches of rainbow chard and kale. It’s a true delight to both the eyes and the taste buds.

One new and unexpected thing I learned during my stay was how to properly cook fresh corn. As I scooped up armfuls of freshly picked sweet corn, a farmer taught me that poaching the whole ear is actually better than briefly boiling it as I had been doing!  She also told me to never salt the water- as it toughens the kernels.

Perfect (poached) corn on the cob

– Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
– Drop the freshly shucked ears of corn in the water and cover.
– Turn off the heat and allow the corn to sit in the water for about 8 minutes.
– Drain and pat dry.

Martha’s Vineyard: Have You S(h)ucked An Oyster Today?

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

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We are on Martha’s Vineyard this week and while my husband was bodysurfing the swells of Hurricane Bill (He couldn’t bring his surfboard so he took swim fins instead – lunatic?!) I went searching for oysters, his absolute favorite. He keeps an oyster journal at home of his true favorites. Currently at the top of the list are Cape Breton oysters we had in Nova Scotia, Hog Island oysters from his boyhood home in Northern California and Wellfleet oysters from Cape Cod, and now, a dozen cultured oysters I bought on Martha’s Vineyard. They were insanely delicious. He swears by chewing them ten times and occasionally squeezing a bit of lemon or a dab wasabi on them. I like a mignonette sauce for mine. Here’s a recipe to make it.

Mignonette Sauce
2 teaspoons of champagne vinegar
2 teaspoons of finely chopped shallot
1 teaspoon of finely chopped flat leaf parsley
pinch of freshly ground black pepper
pinch of sugar

Combine in a small bowl and allow to sit for 30 minutes.